A few years back, the answer to the question ‘What is the best time to visit Ladakh?’ was from June to September. But in a few years, it has changed to all the year round. All the seasons have their own charm and provide different vistas to view. In the winters there are very few tourists. Only die hard, adventurous, go in that season. During winters even some Ladakhis leave Ladakh for warmer climate and employment.

Here we will discuss how to plan and prepare you for your trip to White Ladakh in winters.

Planning for the trip, especially for Ladakh plays a major role in the success of your trip. A trip to Ladakh in winters when temperatures can fall up to -40 degree Celsius (we experienced around -25) is a different ball game and proper planning for it becomes all the more essential.

How to travel to Ladakh in Winters?

As all the road links close down, so Ladakh is not accessible by road in winter. The only option is to fly from Delhi to Leh. Jet Airways, Air India and Goair operate direct flights to Leh. Due to weather conditions, sometimes flights get cancelled. All the flights are good, but the Goair has high landing percentage. Book your flights well in advance. I got a very good deal of 3000/- return in Aug 2014 for Jan 2015 flight.

Where to Stay and Eat?

After flight booking, the next step is to find out good stay option. Not many guesthouses/hotels with heating arrangement are open in winters.

When Water stands still and Stare

In Leh

Panorama Hotel on the Changspa road is a good budget option with central heating. Other options are Hotel Tso Kar, The Grand Dragon, Shanti Guest House and a few guest houses. I would recommend to stay in a hotel with central heating.

The majority of restaurants, like hotels are closed in winter. Only a few like Neha Sweets, Shere Punjab and Wazwan in Leh main market where you can have yummy food are open. There are a few dhabas on the outskirts of Leh like in Karu or on few places towards Lamayaryu are open which serve good food. If you like your food spicy I would recommend you carry a small jar of pickle along with you.

In Nubra valley

Habib guest house in Hunder is the best option to stay and eat. I will highly recommend it. You have to book it well in advance.

From Leh to Hunder you can have noodles, Dal Rice or momos at a few places like Khardungla top, North pullu, Khardung village or at Diskt.

 Pangong

The Best option for stay is a Yakmik Changla Guest house at Tangste village. You can also find Homestays in Spangmik, Man or Merak villages with very basic amenities.

Food  is also very basic you can have noodles, Dal Rice or momos only.

 

Frozen Pangong

Tso Moriri, Hanle ,Chumthang

There is only one stay option at Hanle with very basic amenities and food. It will be better to book it in advance.

At Chumathang you can stay at Hot spring resort. A basic resort built above the hot springs. As food is not available at the resort you have to walk quite a bit to the village for the same.

At Karzok there is less chance that any homestay would be open. It is recommended that you stay at Chumthang while visiting Tso Moriri.

How to travel within the region?

After flight bookings and stay arrangement. The next step is to arrange for your transportation in Ladakh during your visit in winter.

The best and comfortable option is a taxi. It is difficult to find a shared taxi in the winters. The only option is to hire a taxi. For a single person, it will be very expensive; I would recommend you travel in a group of 4 to 5 people so that the expenses are shared. Taxi cost is the major part of your winter tour expenses. Ladakhi taxi rates are fixed rate, which you can find here. You can contact drivers directly and get discount on listed rates. Me and a few friends have availed the services of Rigzin, Dorjee, Abdul. They are competent and have good rapport. You can also arrange through your hotel or you can call up Taxi union. Book the taxi in advance and share your tentative Itinerary with the driver and get the approximate budget. You can ask the driver to book your stay options outside Leh. We booked Ringzin in October and asked him to book our stay at Hunder and Hanle.

Main part of planning

The booking accomplished, the next task is to plan carefully and precisely for the harsh weather.

I have prepared a comprehensive list of all the essential things required  for the winter trip to Ladakh.

The First and the foremost is to keep oneself warm. I am a big fan of multi layering instead of wearing one heavy woollen I prefer the number of layers and suggest same to others also.

Clothing

Jackets – Carry two of good quality, both warm and wind proof and also comfortable with 3-4 layers of clothes underneath it.
Sweaters – Carry two. These should be very warm.

Thermals – at least 2 sets of good quality, if possible one should be of pure wool.
Gloves – Two pairs of good quality, at least one woollen so that you are able to use camera comfortably.
Socks – 2-3 pairs of woollen and equal number of cotton.

Woollen cap – if possible, take 2, one a monkey cap.
Muffler- It is optional if you are using monkey cap then no need.
Innerwear – Pack ample sets as washing is not possible.

Jeans or Cargo – anything that is comfortable to wear over number of layers of thermals. Sometimes they become uncomfortable if they get wet.
Shirts, sweat shirt or T Shirts. – Insufficient number.
Waterproof upper and lower – 1 set (if your jacket is also waterproof then no need to carry upper).
Shoes – A good pair of shoes like Quechua Forclaz 500. The Cheapest option is army shoes. Get at least one size over than your normal wear as you will be wearing multiple layers of socks.Please do break into them before going for the trip. One slipper or sandal
Carry one Shawl it will be useful.

I used to follow the following method of layering to save myself from -25 degrees

Upper body

1st layer Cotton T-shirt (inner wear), 2nd Thermal, 3rd woollen T-shirt, 4th Sweater & 5th layer was Jacket.

Legs

Cotton Thermal was 1st layer, Pure wool thermal was 2nd layer and Jeans was 3rd layer.

Feet

Cotton socks were first layer, woollen socks were second and shoes. Keep your feet warm because from here you will feel cold.

Hands

I used only woollen gloves most of the time.

As I wore a turban I used muffler only.

Eatables

To give you warmth and energy to survive harsh winters in Ladakh you have to keep high intake of protein and fat diet at regular bases. Drink hot water frequently to avoid dehydration.
Chocolates, candies, etc. as per your taste
Biscuits/Namkeen/Nuts/Energy bars/Protein bars etc.

Carry Spice mix, Pickle etc. as per your taste to add flavour to the food available.

Prepare small packets with all dry fruits mixed and carry with you all the time.

Always carry hot water in thermos where ever you go.

We also carried with us specially made pinni. One pinni was equivalent to one meal.

You appreciate these eatables when you are stuck up at some place for hours without access to meals. While returning back from Nubra Valley, we skipped Breakfast and got stuck for six hours and were able to reach Leh in the evening. For the whole day we were without meals or tea and had only eatables and hot water we were carrying with us.

First aid kit

I won’t go into details for which medicine to carry, but you should carry medicines for cold, headache, fever, allergy, altitude, stomach ache with you. After consulting your physician start taking Diamox twice a day, two days before starting your trip.

Other Essentials

A good sunscreen with SPF more than 40 is very essential.

UV protected Sun glasses are must to save your eyes from direct sun rays and reflection from snow
Every person should have his/her own Torch/Head lamp.

Good quality flask to keep hot water, each person should have his/her own.
Cold Cream moisturizer won’t work there.

Olive oil/Mustard oil for moisturizing skin it can also be used inside nostrils.

You will need lip balm in large quantity

Hot water bottle it comes very handy while sleeping.

Deodorant if you plan to stay for a night out of Leh you will have to miss your bath.

Toilet rolls are a must for this trip.

Candle/match box
Umbrella
Swiss knife
Notebook/pen
Zippy pouches all sizes

Documents

Photo ID – Driving License /Passport/PAN/ Adhaar Card (carry Photocopies also)
Cash – I would recommend you carry enough cash to cover all the expenses.

Copies of your air ticket.

Friends please take note that only post-paid mobile phone connections of other states work in Ladakh and only BSNL has presence beyond Leh.

Photography and Electronics

Camera/cameras with complete kit
Battery (carry extra batteries for your camera and also for remote or intervalometer if you are using)
Mobile (only post paid connection from other states work, Bsnl is the best)
Charger for all your electronic devices (mobile, camera, etc.)
Memory cards carry enough memory cards to last your whole trip (If you have bought new check them before going to the trip).
Pen drive (if you are carrying enough memory cards then no need)
Card reader, but try to avoid using cyber cafe they might have virus in their computers.
3-4 port voltage surge protector + 3 way plug
Car charger for your smart phones and/or battery bank

Tentative Itinerary

I will suggest minimum seven to eight nights for White Ladakh.

The majority of  internal roads of Ladakh remains open even in peak winters. You can easily explore all the areas by taxi.  Avoid going to Nubra valley and the Changthang Plateau on the last day or two of your trip. Some time roads can get close for a few days because of heavy snowfall.

You need to be properly acclimatized to high altitude and to cold weather. As you reach Leh by flight, I would highly recommend you take complete rest on the first day. Make sure not to over stress yourself. Once sunlight is gone temperature tends to fall quite rapidly, so try to stay indoors or carry your warm jacket with you.

On second day also, to get properly acclimatize plan the day at a slow pace. Explore Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Namgyal Tsemo Gompa and Hall of Fame in Leh. You can combine with it a Sham valley tour (Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, Alchi, Likir, Spituk, Basgo Monasteries, Indus and Zanskar Sangam and Magnetic Hill). Or you can do Monastery Circuit (Hemis, Thiksey and Shey Monasteries).

Now, as you have been properly acclimatized, Keep third and fourth day for Nubra valley. Plan this day as big day. If weather permits, try for Kardungla pass and drive to Nubra valley for the night. If your schedule permits you can stay for two nights. You can visit Diskit, Hunder and if time permits you can visit Turtuk and return to Leh next day. If you are staying for two nights, then next day can visit Sumur, Panamik and you can till Warshi and return to Leh third day.

Plan your trip to Pangong Tso for fifth and sixth day with night stay at Tangste or at Spangmik. Leave early from your hotel for the day. Either get your Breakfast and lunch packed from hotel or You can Have breakfast at Karu and lunch at Spangmik. If you are staying at Tangste try to return back from lake to Tangste in daylight. Next day morning again you can go to the lake if you wish and Return to Leh.

Keep Seventh day as buffer day. On this day you can visit Lamayaru and other places on the way if everything goes according to the plan.

On the eighth day board the flight from Leh and return back.

If you plan to visit Hanle or Tso Moriri add one day and for both add two days. You can combine this with your Pangong trip. You can go from Spangmik via Chushul to Hanle on the sixth day with night stay at Hanle and return to Leh on the seventh day. Or you can go to Tsomoriri on the seventh day and return to Leh on the eighth day with night stay at Karzok or at Chumthang. You can also visit Hanle and/or Tsomoriri from Leh for that you will have to add one more day.

Above Itinerary is tentative for your guidance. You can twitch it according to your needs. Sometimes you have to change at ground zero due to unforeseen things like weather, road blockage, etc. Keep the itinerary flexible.

Remember, no amount of planning can help so proceed with caution. Always treat nature with respect and care. Before embarking on this trip, please do consult your physician and follow his advice.